Effect of wave height on cross-shore solute mixing*

JM Pearson, I Guymer, John West, Lawrence Coates

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

14 Citations (Scopus)


The investigations reported relate to a series of hydrodynamic and fluorometric tracing experiments carried out in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility, located at H. R. Wallingford Ltd. Detailed measurements were made to examine the cross-shore spreading of a solute mostly outside the surf zone for shore-normal waves combined with a long-shore current. Data arc presented that characterize the solute transport processes and quantify the contribution of wave activity to the mixing processes in the coastal zone. Results suggest that the mixing increases with the square of the wave height, H, but that this variation incorporates the effects of several mixing mechanisms. The location of the breaker point is shown to be important for near-shore mixing studies. Using analytical procedures, it has been shown that by incorporating the theoretical wave-induced velocity with realistic estimates of the turbulence, an overall cross-shore depth-averaged theoretical mixing coefficient can be determined. When compared with the measured solute concentration data, the model results show qualitative agreement.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)10-20
Number of pages11
JournalJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Issue number1
Publication statusPublished - 1 Jan 2002


  • wave height
  • mixing
  • dispersion relations
  • solutes
  • United Kingdom


Dive into the research topics of 'Effect of wave height on cross-shore solute mixing*'. Together they form a unique fingerprint.

Cite this